It's 24 degrees inside and 0.3 degrees outside this morning. There's a layer of crisp white frost on the roofs and lawn but we're very toasty indoors. The heat from the huge indoor fire radiates out through the house 24/7. It's far hotter than anything I'd have at home but it's the norm here. Sleeping with the window open means the bedroom stays cooler during the night, although the downside is that night noises are so much louder. The tractor, coming down the lane late last night sounded like it was coming through the window. It was so loud! The dogs start barking when the papers are delivered at 4:30am, then comes the voices heard at the bus stop and the bus at 5:30am. The clock chimes at 6am and that pattern is repeated every single day. Hungarians go to bed early and they're up at 5am so what do they care? Life in rural Hungary, even so close to the main tourist 'sea' of Lake Balaton, continues as it has done for many years. Signs of sky dishes, telephone masts are the only sign that technology may have invaded village life. There's an older generation that live here in the villages who live a frugal, simple life and they hold dear their traditions, their festivals, their recipes and their catholic roots. That's the Hungary I want to visit.
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